Submit
Advice
Brakes
Submitted
by: James Thornton
1. Jack
up, jack stand, remove wheel and all needed components.
2. Disconnect the brake sensor (connected to the inner pad on
the passenger side.)
3. Looking at the caliper, there are two pins holding the pads
into the calipers. Remove the cotter keys from the pins, then
remove the pins.
4. Remove the old pads.
5. Push the pistons back into the calipers with a standard screwdriver.
6. Slide in the new pads. Replace the pins and cotter keys (recommended
to purchase new pins and keys).
7. Connect the brake sensor to the new pad.
8. REPLACE Wheel!
Submitted
by: Lee Hurt
Pulling
TO LEFT OR RIGHT
In
most cases when you apply the brakes and the car pulls to the
left or right this can be attributed to a sticking brake caliper.
Depending on the application some calipers can be rebuild and
in other cases the faulty caliper must be replaced. If your
vehicle is equipped with ABS brakes you may find that the valve
body in the ABS system is malfunctioning. NOTE: ABS brakes are
under VERY HIGH PRESSURE and should only be worked on by those
who are properly trained!
Submitted
by: Will Tillery
Vibration while braking.
A Vibration when applying the brakes in most ROVERS can be attributed
to warped Rotors. Warped rotors can have several attributing
Factors. For example, Over tightened lug nuts can cause rotors
to be in a bind therefore leading to warping during one of the
next heating and cooling cycles. However, this is not say that
this is the leading factor. Rotors tend to warp in general simply
because of the number of times they heat up and cool during
a year. When you stop suddenly or brake hard the rotors heat
up and then cool back down. This often lead to an imbalance
or warping. Replacement is the cure. You can often identify
this failure by being able to feel a vibration through the break
pedal when stopping
Submitted
by: Ray Lopez
Scrubbing sound when applying brakes.
One
of two reasons. Reason 1 - The pads that were used are an inferior
grade pad. Usually, an inferior grade pad will make its presence
known by noting a very high pitch squeal when applying the brakes.
Reason 2 - The brake pads that were used are hard use pads which
contain a type of material which will cause this noise to occur.
It does not mean that there is a serious problem. It simply
means that it is the type of materials contained within the
brake pad. Only cure - replace the pads! Hard use pads will
generally not cause damage to the rotors but the noise can be
somewhat consistent!
Electrical
Submitted
by Callan Campbell
Model: Range Rover Classic (could apply to earlier models)
Everyone talks and looks about the positive cables and connections
on their Rovers. Don't overlook these 2 important ground connections.
[1] The battery to chassis ground cable bolt point.
Located at the end of the battery ground cable, bolts to an
eyelet section of the frame,right next to the lower right side
of the radiator area.
The 5/16" or 8mm bolt is usually getting rusty
after a number of years in service. Remove the bolt, clean and
sand both the cable eyelet/terminal end and also make the frame
section shiny here. Reassemble with a new bolt, a star washer
if you can get one, and a flat washer, plus a Nyloc nut for
the bolt.
Put the star washer under the bolt head, route the bolt through
the cable end, and attach the flat washer and Nyloc nut to the
bolt once you've got the cable and bolt against the frame eyelet
hole.
I spray a shot of "body wax" [also known as "waxoyl"
in the UK] to keep the area from rusting in the future as easily.
Just a quick spray on the cable end and the mounting bolt will
really help with water/rust.
The other
neglected ground cable is the heavy duty cable that is the engine
ground. Runs from one of the starter mounting bolts to a fairly
small bolt on the frame, right in an outrigger, next to a body/frame
rubber mount.
Either end can get dirty/corroded. Very hard to replace the
frame-side mounting bolt as the body mount is in the way. Just
wire brush each end spotless, and reinstall all mounting hardware.
Again, a shot of "body wax" protection spray will
help keep water/rust at bay here for a long time.
Either Wurths
Body Wax spray or Winzer Tek-Wax will do, though the Wurth's
product is not as runny as the Winzer spray wax. Use "Waxoyl"
if it's available too.
Submitted
by: Rich Farris
Whine at start up.
A whining
or high pitched whirring noise that occurs at initial start
up can often be attributed to a faulty starter assembly. Another
area to look at is the tension of the belt. Weak belt tension
can also cause a high pitched whine on initial start up!
Engine
Submitted
by: John Crane
Replacement issues
When Land
Rover decided to introduce a V-8 engine into its product line,
they purchased the design rights to the General Motors 1962
Buick Skylark 215 cid all aluminum engine and expanded on it.
If you are looking to upgrade your engine timing gears and applicable
timing chain to steel and double roller (respectively), I suggest
contacting your local speed shop (ie. H & M Motorsports in Richmond,
Va.)and ordering replacements through them instead of spending
four times as much on original replacements. The Rover 3.5,
3.9 and 4.2 all use the same Timing assy., Lifters and Pushrods
if you should decide to rebuild the top end of your engine.
Also if you are looking into replacing your Camshaft for your
3.5 or 3.9, I know you can acquire one (originally intended
for the Buick) from the speed shop mentioned above. As for the
4.2 I have'nt personaly researched the Camshaft replacement
as of yet. Good Luck and Happy Rovering !!! P.S. When and if
one decides to remove & replace ones Timing assy. dont't be
frightened when you discover your original Timing Gears are
PLASTIC !!!
